Franklin Banner

Franklin Zito designed a new personal-size (6-foot) Club banner and we will make it for the first time at the Banner Workshop on March 9. Here is some insight as to how the banner is made.


The banner is essentially a big square (24") cut on the diagonal, and then a small square (12") put between the two triangles. Add a border, and that is the banner.

The trick is adding that border. The border needs to be hemmed. That is no problem on the outside 'peaks'. But what about the inside 'valleys'? How do we hem an inside corner?

Carefully, very carefully. :)

What I chose to do is to mark and fold for the hems, and then insert the next Border Panel in to the first fold of the double-fold hem. It worked very well. It is strong and gives a good appearance, and is not difficult to sew.
First Step: Add the border to the outside top edge of the top triangle.It is hot tacked in place and then sewn with a Flat Fell seam. I used the edge of the Presser Foot as the guide for the first seam, then folded on the stitches and top stitched the flap.

Above, the border has been added to the top panel and trimmed off to match the pole-edge of the panel. Put that piece of border aside and it can be used for the bottom border later. Above, the two yellow panel edges with blue tape need borders. Hmmm...
Cut a piece of border 16-1/2" long and another piece 10" long. Mark for a 3/4" double fold hem, and fold for the hem, on both border panels. STOP!
Fold the hem for the 10" panel. BAD sides together, insert the short panel in to the hem-fold on the 16-1/2" panel. Hot tack it in place.
Take that L-shaped assembly and hot tack it to the left edge of the 12" square above. Align the edge of the long border with the top edge of the square as above. Sew it in place with a Flat Fell seam as before. Then align that that 3-panel assembly to the point at the bottom edge of the triangle and sew the assembly to the bottom edge of the big triangle (above). Note that NO HEMS HAVE BEEN SEWN.

The 3-panel assembly has been sewn to the top triangle panel. Now, the 2 taped edges above need borders. We will do the same thing, just different.
Cut a piece of border at 16-1/2" and another at 10-1/2".
I chose to do the two pieces as a unit, but the long one could be sewn to the banner, and then the short one inserted.
The 2-panel border assembly has been sewn to the banner. Now that bottom triangle needs to be aligned to the pole-edge of the banner and sewn in place.
Just another look.
Bottom triangle sewn in place. Now we just need one more piece of border.
Remember that piece with the angle on it that we put aside? Now it can be used on the bottom of the banner. Align to the pole-edge of the banner using your favorite seam allowance. The gold-colored strip is my seam allowance.
The stitches will go along the edge of the fabric, and they will start right in the 'V' formed by the yellow & red panels above. That way the edges will line up when the border is felled and top-stitched.
Yippee! All the borders are sewn in place. Now they just need to be trimmed and the hems sewn. Doing it this way, the entire length of the border hem can be sewn in one operation.
Then add the sleeve for the pole.
Trim off the top of the sleeve to match the angle of the banner. Sew the top of the sleeve.
And now we can start the appliqué!
The triangular cut-outs in the template are to align it to the sleeve for the pole.


The letters are drawn in reverse on the back side of the banner. A long single piece of fabric is positioned underneath and then a hot tacker is used to tack the panels together along the lines of the letters.
It took about 30 minutes to sew the letters. I used a 2mm x 3mm zig-zag stitch and an Appliqué Presser Foot. The Appliqué Foot provides good visibility of the lines that need to be sewn. On the Pfaff 2042 sewing machine, it means that the Positive Feed arm cannot be used. It is worth that sacrifice in order to be able to see!
Front-view of the sewn appliqué. Now we need to cut away the fabric we don't want. There are a couple of tricks to make it go faster.
It took about 20 minutes to cut out the letters on the front.

What scraps?
In a perfect world, the back of the letters would be cut out too.
These cheap Fiskars are my current choice for cutting ripstop appliqué. WARNING! These scissors are very pointy. I used a whetstone to blunt off the end of one blade. That blunt blade goes down in to the layers of fabric for cutting away the appliqué. The black cable-tie marks the finger hole to keep away from the fabric to keep the blunt blade in.

Watch the José Sainz video to see how a National Champion Kite Maker does his appliqué.

No comments:

Post a Comment